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Can you use bondo on hard plastic?

S

skeptic [JU]

Archived
storydude said:
I know the exact bezel. It sucks. EVERY one I've seen is broken, or cracked somewhere. I don;t know what you could do with that to cover with vinyl. Maybe cut a small piece of hard Lexan and route out the guage holes.
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That was actually my first thought, I posted that as a question a while back. I think if I can find something to fill the grooves and fake screw holes it would be better.

BTW, until I cut the hole for the new stereo it was in perfect shape, just 70's style ugly. I can't imagine the $100 replacements are all that different.
On a side note, have a working clock? If so, you can just about write your price on it, and sell it.
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No clock at all, not sure if it was an option or standard on all '81s, but the stereo has a digital clock so where other years have the analog clock this has an extra gauge. Oil temp or pressure or something.

Ok, so no bondo on plastic, got it. Actually I have some pieces that I cut out for the stereo, and since I have some bondo I might just see what happens and if it sticks. If it doesn't work I'll see if I can find some 3M #39458 Flexible Polyester Putty that stevesmith7 mentioned. Otherwise I'll try some epoxy. I did see some that was for plastic at the autoparts store (not what wetdog is talking about I'm sure), but I was afraid it might end up JB Weld hard and damn near impossible to sand smooth. Guess I could always mix some up on a piece of cardboard and see how it turns out. If that doesn't work I guess the next thing to try would be fiberglass. Even if I have to cover the entire face and not just use the resin in the grooves I don't think it would be THAT bad.
 
S

storydude [JU]

Archived
skeptic said:
That was actually my first thought, I posted that as a question a while back. I think if I can find something to fill the grooves and fake screw holes it would be better.

BTW, until I cut the hole for the new stereo it was in perfect shape, just 70's style ugly. I can't imagine the $100 replacements are all that different.
No clock at all, not sure if it was an option or standard on all '81s, but the stereo has a digital clock so where other years have the analog clock this has an extra gauge. Oil temp or pressure or something.

Ok, so no bondo on plastic, got it. Actually I have some pieces that I cut out for the stereo, and since I have some bondo I might just see what happens and if it sticks. If it doesn't work I'll see if I can find some 3M #39458 Flexible Polyester Putty that stevesmith7 mentioned. Otherwise I'll try some epoxy. I did see some that was for plastic at the autoparts store (not what wetdog is talking about I'm sure), but I was afraid it might end up JB Weld hard and damn near impossible to sand smooth. Guess I could always mix some up on a piece of cardboard and see how it turns out. If that doesn't work I guess the next thing to try would be fiberglass. Even if I have to cover the entire face and not just use the resin in the grooves I don't think it would be THAT bad.
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The Bondo WILL stick. Just keep the acetone/laquerthinner away.

So, If I see this right, you want to fill in the grooves, fake screws, and then cover with vinyl? Why not use a thicker vinyl, and forget about it? I know what you are trying to do, and my friend's 76 has that done. IT looks Meh the way he did it..He used some bondo type filler, and sanded it down before throwig on BAR STOOL materal.:naw:

Ever think about a small thin sheet of Aircraft plywood from the hobby shop? Make an insert that pops in and is helf by friction? Balsa also might be a REALLY good idea to fill the grooves with. I know you can get it in just about and size. Small wooden dowels wll do the job for the holes.
 
S

skeptic [JU]

Archived
storydude said:
The Bondo WILL stick. Just keep the acetone/laquerthinner away.

So, If I see this right, you want to fill in the grooves, fake screws, and then cover with vinyl? Why not use a thicker vinyl, and forget about it?
Click to expand...
I'm afraid if I did that it would eventually develop lines where the grooves are.
I know what you are trying to do, and my friend's 76 has that done. IT looks Meh the way he did it..He used some bondo type filler, and sanded it down before throwig on BAR STOOL materal.:naw:
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The same "meh" result is a definate possibility. It can't be worse than the 70's look it has now, plus I'm keeping the option of taking it to a custom interior shop and saying "fix it" as a last resort option.
Ever think about a small thin sheet of Aircraft plywood from the hobby shop? Make an insert that pops in and is helf by friction? Balsa also might be a REALLY good idea to fill the grooves with. I know you can get it in just about and size.
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yes, thin plywood, sheet of plastic/acrylic, sheet metal, all are things I've considered. Both just over the top as you describe or glued on with vinyl over it all.

I'll post pics when I'm done, no matter how crappy it turns out. :blingx2:
 
M

mrblaine [JU]

Archived
Find a real auto body supply and get the bumper repair material for plastic bumper covers. Most "Bondo" type fillers are polyester resin based and not even suitable for the FRP the body on your car is made of.

Some epoxies are formulated for bonding to plastic substrates, but do not assume any are unless it specifically states that is a use on the label.

Your dash being in a vehicle will be subjected to wide temperature variations and you need the material you use for a filler to actually bond so the repeated flexing from the temps won't cause the lines of filler to pop out of the grooves.

It will also be a good idea to take denatured alcohol and thoroughly clean the surfaces you plan on bonding and filling several times to remove any bond breakers that may have accumulated over the years. Skin oils, armor-all, and most any cleaner/interior conditioner will have some sort of bond breaker in it that will need to be removed if you plan on any success.

The plastic specific fillers are generally a two part mix, are flexible, easily sanded with good edge peel resistance. They cure quickly and are very easy to use.
 
K

kjk [JU]

Archived
Jesus just Bondo the thing and be done with it already. As far as the acetone/lacquer thinner goes, yes they will eat plastic but you aren't supposed to immerse the thing. :rolleyes: Just wipe it with a rag lighly soaked to remove any oils on the plastic. The Bondo will stick like crazy. It's cheap. Easy to work. And it will all be covered anyway.
 
M

mrblaine [JU]

Archived
kjk said:
Jesus just Bondo the thing and be done with it already. As far as the acetone/lacquer thinner goes, yes they will eat plastic but you aren't supposed to immerse the thing. :rolleyes: Just wipe it with a rag lighly soaked to remove any oils on the plastic. The Bondo will stick like crazy. It's cheap. Easy to work. And it will all be covered anyway.
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Did you ever wonder why the reuseable body filler mixing boards are made from plastic?

http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=42

You just flex them and the hardened filler pops off.
 
S

SiriusRIMZ [JU]

Archived
Use ABS Cement, I've used it many times when custom fabbin plastic dashes. Its a PITA to work with, plus if you use some low grit paper to rough it up before hand, the stuff will stick, and stick well.
 
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