UGH. They had laid 1/2" MDF on top of 3/4" plywood for the subfloors in the kitchen and baths of htis house. It did NOT hold up well.Edit: I used 3/4" MDF for my floor. HD had it on sale and I bought some damaged pieces and it has held up fine.
Sister the current truss with 2x12s, glue and nails for the sistering.Is there some way to keep the 12 inches of blown-in insulation and still put down the plywood without having to do rather ridiculous things like trying to put 2x10's on top of the current joists?
Yes, yes it does.Does sistering mean fastening to the side of the 2x4 so that I've got a total of 12 inches of height?
Yes. One thing to be careful of is extra weight. By the time you add all those new joists and the plywood, that is a lot of weight, and if your current joists/rafters/trusses are really 2x4s, you might get into trouble. You just need to make sure that your new sistered joists are supported propertly.Does sistering mean fastening to the side of the 2x4 so that I've got a total of 12 inches of height?
They'll be sitting on the plates of load bearing walls. The 2x12s won't deflect anywhere near what 2x4s do, so he'll probably be good. I've found blocking goes a rediculously long way to increasing rigidity as well for little added weight.Yes. One thing to be careful of is extra weight. By the time you add all those new joists and the plywood, that is a lot of weight, and if your current joists/rafters/trusses are really 2x4s, you might get into trouble. You just need to make sure that your new sistered joists are supported propertly.
They *should* be sitting on the plates. But if he really does have 2x4s, and depending on the angle of the roof, there probably wont be enough space to fully sister the 2x12 in there. The ends would have to be trimmed at an angle to sit down there nicely, which would work fine. Just something to be aware of.They'll be sitting on the plates of load bearing walls. The 2x12s won't deflect anywhere near what 2x4s do, so he'll probably be good. I've found blocking goes a rediculously long way to increasing rigidity as well for little added weight.
Both of those are expensive, and completely unnecessary for the cost (plus you don't want to deal with hardwood). Think they make most subfloor grade out of DF.Oak plywood? Birch plywood? Does it matter?
Birch and Oak in 3/4" will likely be more of a cabinet grade plywood and cost more. The regular old stuff is either pine or fir, I dont remember.Oak plywood? Birch plywood? Does it matter?
DF?Both of those are expensive, and completely unnecessary for the cost (plus you don't want to deal with hardwood). Think they make most subfloor grade out of DF.
Yes.DF?
Edit: Douglas fir?
Thx. Seems like Lowe's only has birch or Oak in 3/4 at my location. Will look elsewhere.Birch and Oak in 3/4" will likely be more of a cabinet grade plywood and cost more. The regular old stuff is either pine or fir, I dont remember.
They also use a different glue in them. They are more pliable than T&G flooring plywood. I used it for my wainstcoating, but moreso that it was paint grade.Birch and Oak in 3/4" will likely be more of a cabinet grade plywood and cost more. The regular old stuff is either pine or fir, I dont remember.
x2. I hate HD. I have to go there occasionally, and it angers me. I love Lowe's. Im surprised, your Lowe's should have it.Thx. Seems like Lowe's only has birch or Oak in 3/4 at my location. Will look elsewhere.
I hate HD.
Sometimes it actually costs less. Usually they have decent sales around me.HD is junque. Unfortunately, Lowes is like 4 times the distance or more away. Lowes costs more as well, but I make the trip for certain items.